Instruction for gluing “Toscana” slabs
This instruction concerns the gluing of elevation slabs imitating stone and clinker also natural sandstone of one size of given kind which can be used for outside and inside of buildings. Particular information cannot be applied to some types of slabs and it is important to read the given instructions before gluing (especially concerns using fugue in elevation, also conditions of gluing and the application of glue). Before approaching any type of work it is important to count how much slabs will be needed to glue the given surface of the elevation and add to calculated amount from 6 to 10%. Proper glue and fugue should be bought and eventually a conservational chemical suggested by the producer. If there is a possibility of buying the corners add to the calculated amount on tolerance wastes, 5%.  Buying one-time of all wanted materials guarantees repeatability of the colors of slabs and fugues, because producers do not take into consideration colors and difference of materials after it has been bought. Before gluing the wall should be aligned with an aligning mortar, the surface must be sufficiently stable and exactly clearcoled.  Construction concerns constant dimensions where X is the height of the slab and Y is the width of the slab.
If the whole building will be done then the building should be outlined with a defining leveled line, from which subsidiary lines will be drawn to help the gluing of slabs. It is best to draw the line with the assistance of a paint string with dry dye, water leveler or a regular leveler around the whole building and the line must “close”. This line is most important; if the line is bandy then it causes bandy-glued slabs.  This is somewhat labor consuming, but it will considerably facilitate with gluing. After painting the baseline with the assistance of paint string, we appoint lines for gluing the wall with the following recommendations:

1. Lay the width of the fugue (most often 10mm)
2. Height of slab X is added to 10 mm fugue and we end up with the space in between slabs, which must be maintained, 10 + X mm
3. During the gluing of the elevation we stick, every other row of slabs and from such distance we draw horizontal lines on the wall every 20 + 2*X mm from the top to the very bottom based on our baseline around the building

The elevation should be glued every other row, because after gluing these rows according to the lines we fill in the missing spaces, and then the fugues are aligned “on eye” and there is no chance of the slabs being glued on bumpy. Gluing should be started from the corners from the most representative place, which in this place there will be no cut-fitting slabs. After gluing the corners down the gluing of slabs will go automatically. On walls that are longer than 5metres, are also outlined for keeping one distance of horizontal and vertical fugues.
After gluing the corners, before gluing the slabs, quadruple distance is measured the width of the slab plus the fugue i.e. (Y mm+10 mm)*4 = 40 mm+4*Y mm, on the top and down parts of the elevation. After connecting the points we have a line, it belongs to control, that is, if there is a deflect, from the vertical and eventually it should be corrected no more than 5 mm, as the capability of putting down wider fugues in the top or bottom of the elevation exists. Vertical lines are marked from the longest and shortest part of the corner glued on the wall and the next set of lines is charted from the glued slabs, which are vertical lines.
Every line drawn on the wall, always make it easier and do not make it difficult to glue on the slabs, and that is why the glue is put right on the slab with a spatula or slight comb, never with a wall comb.
The finish of wall and doors are miscellaneous and depend on the taste of the owner we suggest, to take a look at other buildings finished with clinker, how the problem was solved there with the finish of doors and windows from brick.

After the glue is exactly dried, around 7 days, before putting the fugue, if it is advised by the producer of the slab, clean elevation with current flowing water until the water becomes clear or if it advised by the producer paint the elevation with a chemical for neutralization. After the exact drying of the whole elevation it is possible to approach spoinowania. Mortar should be prepared exactly to the instructions given on the packaged box by the producer. If it is a fugue from the firm "STEGU®", or a semi-dried fugue prepared on the base of sand and cement then the below instructions should be followed.

The fugue should be prepared in a clean bucket which minimizes rising of efflorescence. The best is to prepare the fugue in portions of about 2 kg. The goal is to produce it in draft 15-20 minutes. In the fall without the sun and wind, time “life” it extends to 30 minutes. Fugue should have the consistency of wet sand: after squeezing it forms to a ball, from which no water leaks through and if it is dropped from a small height it will break. If the proportion of water is used that is indicated on the box there should be no problem. Adding water to a finished mortar is not indicated after utilization of a certain amount. Even though it will be easier to fugue, the reliability on the wall will severely decrease. Sometimes requirement of more water may be depending on the external temperature.
The fugue is placard on with the assistance of fugue for clinker fugue or natural stone; it is possible to buy such materials in any store with building material, but not everyone one is suitable. It is best to buy the hardest fugue, which is bends under a bit of pressure, and returns back up. A bit of cooked mortars is imposed on a rectangle of about the dimensions of 30 x 15 cm, made from a material, which does not soak mist or water such as plastic, galvanized metal because certain amount of water in the fugue could be soaked if made on or put on a absorptive material.

With the help of fugue impose a proper amount of fugue in the slots between the slabs on a surface no more than 4 vertical slabs and 4 horizontal slabs. Next with a determined movement simultaneously press down the fugue and at the same time getting rid of the excess fugue. It is not allowed to press down the fugue 5 times in the same place because the fugue will change to a metallic color and will loose its natural color. After about 10 minutes it is possible to rub fugue with a material glove delicately getting a “rustic” appearance, but it is not allowed to move the structure of the pressed down fugue, because then in that place it will crumble. It is best to finish the fugue in the same weather and better yet to finish it in the same day to avoid difference in colors of fugue. If it is a white fugue then this problem does not apply. The best effect is achieved with a semi-full fugue about the thickness of ½ slab then the falling sun from the side of the face makes a “shadow game” on the wall and gives character to the slabs. Sometimes on the slabs there appear white discoloration, this is a classic salt wykwit and unfortunately it is hard to remove. That is why if the producer recommends, after complete drying of the elevation it is good to preserve it with a conservation chemical prescribed by the producer. If not certain of the final effect, attempt to try it out in a small least visible area. Conservation is not a medicine for all wykwit, but it will considerably limit their capability of showing up. The comforting part is that the nature does its own job and wykwit neutralize themselves about 2-3 years after.